Full Education Programme 2017

  • The summit showcases the latest innovations in Biobeauty and gives a unique opportunity to talk one-to-one with the experts. Delegates will take away new insights, solutions and strategies for developing products that truly biotransform, as well as new connections and inspiration from their peers.

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    Experts will look at the global trends driving beauty brands' interest in biotransformation/fermentation/biotechnology, their move away from petrochemicals and the new target, skin's microbiome.

    09:00 - 09:15
    Opening remarks –  Microbes producers & agents in Beauty? 'Scratching the surface'

    With all this talk about the Microbiome, what does your facial microbiome look like? The opening remarks of this year's in-cosmetics Formulation Summit, – is a brief introduction to the role of microbes in beauty.

    • Discovering your personal microbiome
    • Preserving products while protecting the microbiome
    • Using next generation sequencing technologies to profile microbial communities

    Chair: Dr Barbara Brockway, Director Personal Care, Applied DNA Sciences


    09:15 - 10:00
    Iconic global brands – Success built on fermentation

    Many of the industry’s most iconic beauty products have fermentation as their "raison d’être", and the power that drives their efficacy. The summit explores the legacy of one iconic brand focussing in on its history and the brand's ethos that converts users into devotees.

    • Maintaining the magic
    • Getting the most from fermentation
    • Future of biotransforming beauty
    10:00 - 10:30
    Fermenting consumer interest in the microbiome

    Prebiotics, probiotics, postbiotics... they're all familiar terms in the food & drink market but less well known in beauty and personal care. Nonetheless, the growing popularity of fermented skincare products is helping to establish in consumers' minds the benefits of nurturing "good bacteria" in the microbiome.

    Mintel's director of innovation and insight, Vivienne Rudd, shares the latest research into consumer interest in fermented beauty products and shows how recent product launches are feeding this interest with new ingredients, claims and formats.

    Speaker: Vivienne Rudd, Director of Innovation & Insight, Beauty & Personal Care, Mintel

    10:30 - 11:00
     Coffee and networking break
    11:00 - 11:30
    Korean fermented products energise the market

    The beauty world looks to Korea for inspiration and Koreans have highlighted traditional fermented materials in many innovative approaches. An array of products from masks to creams and makeup to deliver fermented actives to energise, detox,  purify, regenerate …

    Discover & experience during this presentation:

    • How are these traditional materials being used in Asia?
    • How Asian beauty products deliver innovation secured in the past?
    • What are the new ingredients and benefits highlighted nowadays related to pollution, environmental aggression and aging?
    • How inspiring are fermented ingredients for the rest of the world?

    Speaker: Florence Bernardin, Founder & CEO, Information et Inspiration


    11:30 - 12:00
    Revealing the skin microbiota

    Seeing is believing. For far too long the microbiome world we carry around with us has been the 'elephant in the room'. Text book diagrams rarely show the presence of microbial communities on the skin, yet all of us know that they play an important role in the skin's well-being. To help clear up confusion and inspire 'intelligent' new product development, this session will give delegates:

    • An overview of the skin microbiota
    • A knowledge of skin ecology, which is essential for understanding the formation, composition and control of the skin microbiota
    • An appreciation of the composition of the skin microbiota at different body sites

    Speaker: Prof. Michael Wilson, Professor of Microbiology, University College London

    12:00 - 12:20
    Biofilms and their importance in skin ecology

    Every time you clean your teeth you remove a complex community of microbes held in position with biofilm. The extracellular polysaccharides making up biofilms are already used in cosmetics to provide protection and moisturisation. In this session, we will examine:

    • The role of biofilms in skin's complex ecology
    • Extracellular polysaccharides as actives
    • A look in to the future in formulating with the microbiome

    Speaker: Dr. Lawrence Davies, Senior Microbiologist, Perfectus Biomed

    12:20 - 12:40
    Keeping scalp microbiota in check

    People suffering from dandruff scalp's microbiota have lower levels of Propionibacterium acnes and significantly higher levels of Staphylococcus epidermidis and Malassezia restricta. Developing products to rebalance the scalp microbiota could be the route to clearer scalp and the end to bad hair days? In this session, we learn more about:

    • The composition of the scalp microbiota
    • How an imbalance results in 'bad scalp and hair days'
    • And how to manage scalp microecology

    Speaker: Dr. Cécile Clavaud, Research Engineer, Open Research, L'OREAL Research & Innovation

    12:40 - 14:00
    Networking lunch


    14:00 - 14:25
    A close look at preservatives, prebiotics and probiotics for a healthy microbiome

    Is the delicate balance of the microbiome inevitably upset by the product's preservatives? How can formulators walk the tight rope between preserving products and encouraging the microbiome? Just because a material is a prebiotic or probiotic for the gut does that make it useful in topical products? We take a fresh look at preservatives and offer answers to these fundamental questions.

    Speaker: Kit Wallen-Russell, Director, Pavane Research Centre

    14:25 - 14:45
    Can we use live yoghurt? Important regulations & constraints on Biotransforming Beauty

    Regulations are strict about cosmetics being safe and living up to their claims. In this session, we face the issues of:

    • The enigma of Probiotics (with live microbes) passing the challenge test
    • Living up to the claim
    • Probiotics & the skin health

    Speaker: Rajat Narang, Head of the Global Regulatory Affairs & Technical Team, Richards & Appleby Limited


    14:45 - 15:15
    Probiotic skincare technology – Not fake science

    How BeBe & Bella with their background in pharmaceuticals, with an emphasis in nutritional supplements and probiotics, have been leading the way, biotransforming beauty since 2013. with their probiotic-based skin care.

    • Inspired by nutritional supplementations
    • Patented microorganisms
    • Supporting the claim that probiotics can improve skin health and beauty

    Speaker: Allison Krebs-Bensch, CEO & Co-founder, BeBe & Bella

    15:15 - 15:45
    Coffee and networking break
    15:45 - 16:45
    Tuning water-in-Silicone Systems to maximize the release rate and skin penetration of actives

    The stratum corneum (SC), the skin’s outermost layer, is the principal component of the cutaneous barrier acting as a physical barrier controlling the percutaneous absorption of external substances. The SC is composed of stacked corneocytes embedded in an extracellular matrix mainly constituted from ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. This matrix represents the sole continuous region of the SC and the preferential pathway to deliver cosmetic actives into the skin.

    Although the diffusion of a molecule through the SC depends on its concentration, physicochemical properties, degree of solubility, interaction with skin components, potential metabolic and photochemical transformation within the skin, the composition of the topical formulation influences greatly both the bioavailability and release rate of the active from the formulation.

    Dow demonstrated that a formulation can be tuned around different classes of silicone-based excipients to maximize the release rate and skin penetration profiles of anti-ageing actives formulated into water-in-silicone systems.

    Speaker: TBC, DOW

    Intracellular 'housekeeping – Autophagy the new approach to antiaging

    Autophagy is a cellular mechanism for survival and waste management system when cells are in high stress, out of nutrients, or through ageing. Autophagy has been observed in all kinds of human cells including skin cells. Many have reported that lack of autophagic process in various human cells can lead to metabolic diseases such as type 2 diabetes, Alzheimer’s disease, and certain types of cancer, and that inducing autophagy could become a new solution for the treatment of the above symptoms.

    More info...

    Speaker: Keedon Park, CEO, Incospharm Corporation

    Autophagy in practice

    As companies look to his emerging mechanism for keeping skin healthy, we hear how one brand has proved efficacy in its popular Korean skin care.

    Speaker: Sekyoo Jeong Ph.D. Research Director — NeoPharm Co., Ltd. Assistant Professor, Department of Bio-Cosmetic Science, Seowon University

    Other experts TBC


    16:45 - 17:15
    Validating microbiome claims – Including the latest DNA techniques

    Novel claims require new validation methods. Advanced DNA techniques help us screen for new actives to demonstrate efficacy. They also have enabled us to identify and characterise the microbiome, and so unsurprisingly, they are also offering us interesting ways to prove cosmetic claims. Experts in claims validation talk about the methods now being used for supporting claims about the microbiome.

    Speaker: Abel Ureta-Vidal, Chief Executive Officer, Eagle Genomics

    17:15 - 17:45
    Expert Panel – Drivers and constraints controlling biotransformations in beauty

    How can we put into practice the new-found knowledge without breaking rules?

    The panel is drawn from speakers from Day 1 and other experts.

    17:45 - 18:00
    Closing remarks and sponsor’s address

    Chair: Summary and results of the running experiment

    How did your skin microbiome look?

    18:00 - 20:00
    Drinks reception


    Focus on the vast range of ingredients from green technologies that are now available to the formulators who need to quickly make current formulas more sympathetic to the environment as well as those looking for 'new natural' materials and a more efficacious, greener future.

    08:50 - 09:00
    Opening remarks

    Chair: Dr. Barbara Brockway, Director Personal Care, Applied DNA Sciences


    09:00 - 09:30
    Green replacements for materials derived from petrochemicals

    The fastest way to making products greener is to replace materials derived from petrochemicals with chemically identical materials made through biotransformations such as through fermentation. Solvents, Surfactants and now fragrance notes are being produced on a commercial scale by fermentation. In this session, we celebrate the successes that are making the biggest impact on greening our industry.

    09:30 - 09:50
    Patents - an excellent way of finding out about 'new natural' materials from biotechnology

    There are an increasing number of 'new natural' materials designed as replacements for familiar functional cosmetic materials. In this session, we see how patents provide a way of exploring these new natural materials and also provide guidance on how to:

    • Read, understand and make use of patents
    • Stay ahead of the competition – patents as information and protection
    • Avoid legal problems – preventing infringement of others’ rights

    Speaker: Julie Barrett-Major, Consulting Attorney, A.A. Thornton & Co.

    09:50 - 10:10
    Using key biotransformed cosmetic ingredients

    How they are being used. Brand story … Experts help formulators make more of the new, biotransformed materials?

    • How should we be using the most popular biotransformed ingredients.
    • Multifunctional or just a one for one replacement?
    • Looking for synergies
    10:10 - 10:40
    Coffee and networking break


    10:40 - 11:00
    Synthetic biology

    Synthetic biology is a term now being used in personal care. It is an emerging field that applies engineering principles to the fundamental components of biology and is the thinking behind the processes leading to many of the 'new naturals' discussed in the previous session.

    Speaker: Paul Freemont, Imperial College London

    11:00 - 11:20
    Peptides/Enzymes to the rescue

    Peptides turned out to be far more than a trend. Along with enzymes they are amongst the most powerful tools for Biotransforming beauty. In this session, we hear how they are being used in personal care to produce the most efficacious beauty products.

    Speaker: Prof. Ian W. Hamley, Diamond Professor of Physical Chemistry, University of Reading

    11:20 - 11:50
    Biomimetic strategies leading to greater innovation

    Biomimetic strategies leading to greater innovation: The living natural world's elegant and sophisticated chemistries are a rich source of innovative new cosmetics formulations that could, and have, improved performance while also making cosmetics more sustainable.

    Mark Dorfman will show how biomimicry systematically taps into nature’s strategies to uncover and apply Life’s design principles and deep patterns to the development of effective biomimetic solutions.

    More info...

    Speaker: Mark Dorfman, Biomimicry Chemist, Biomimicry 3.8


    11:50 - 12:20
    Bioavailability & optimum delivery - Learning from Pharma

    By optimising bioavailability through biotransformations and by choosing the best delivery vehicles, formulators can fine-tune formulas to fit their budgets as well as satisfying the consumer's expectations. Increasing bioavailability and targeting delivery are techniques, which pharma has made their own. In this session, we learn from pharmacology, how to make the best use of actives.

    12:20 - 13:30
    Networking lunch
    13:30 - 13:50
    Marine inspiration – algae and UV protection

    Fast growing algae protect themselves from UV damage with mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs). It has been proposed that these natural sunscreens could 'biotransform' SPF products. As we move closer to their commercialisation, the Summit asks the academics to tell them more about these and the other algae derived materials, which are already here or are likely to be coming to the beauty industry soon.

    Speaker: Dr. Carole Llewellyn, Associate Professor in Applied Aquatic Bioscience, Swansea University

    13:50 - 14:10
    Bio-protection from polluting nanoparticles

    Since last year's summit the market for pollution protecting products has mushroomed. The fine nanoparticles have been shown to cause some of the worst damage. In this session, we look at natural approached to protection and removal on polluting nanoparticles.

    Speaker: David Delport, Global Head of Education, REN Clean Skincare

    14:10 - 14:30
    Epigenetics and cell regulation explained and tamed

    Epigenetics refers to the collective mechanisms that regulate gene expression and mediate environmental effects on the genome. The use of the term epigenetics has been broadly adopted. However, understanding the mechanistic underpinnings of epigenetics is essential for extending its application to complex systems such as those relevant to the cosmetics industry.

    In this session, delegates will be given a clear explanation of epigenetic mechanisms. They will hear how these dynamic mechanisms interpret the genome and regulate the function of genes in different tissue types. The relevance of the epigenome in environment:genome interactions will be considered in the context of cosmetic products.

    Speaker: Rebecca Oakey, Professor of Epigenetics, King's College London

    14:30 - 14:50
    Combining Artificial Intelligence and DNA analysis to accelerate the discovery of new actives from nature

    Technology advances are disrupting industry after industry and no technology threatens to be more disruptive than Artificial Intelligence; from driver-less vehicles and replacing the family doctor to the more extreme visions of self-aware robots intent of destroying the human race.

    Nuritas focus is on human health and using the combination of artificial intelligence and genomics to unlock natural Bioactive peptides with extraordinary health benefits. Their approach has generated significant interest to date including a “Women of the Decade” award from the EU for their founder and CSO, Dr Nora Khaldi; a Forbes award as the business ‘Most likely to reinvent America through Food’; and some Rockstar investors in U2’s Bono and The Edge.

    Speaker: Neil Forster, Commercial Manager, Nuritas

    14:50 - 15:20
    Coffee and networking break
    15:20 - 15:40
    Circular economy applied to natural & organic cosmetics enables a holistic approach to ageing

    The use of sustainable resources is a pressing issues in all industrial fields and even more so in the cosmetic industry. The use of waste materials, either of botanical origin or from the food industry, is opening new possibilities in the development of raw materials and finished goods that are not only efficacious, but also more sustainable, renewable and green.

    On the other side, there is a strong movement towards products that favour a better & more gracious ageing with a strong focus on the emotional aspects of life, cosmetic products included.

    The Author will present a case study showing how the use of a sustainable ingredients derived from botanical waste enabled a more holistic approach to skin ageing.

    Speaker: Dr. Andrea Mitarotonda, CSO, Neal's Yard Remedies

    15:40 - 16:10
    Closing remarks & group discussion

    Experts exchange views and share their experience.

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