Full Education Programme 2017

  • The 2017 summit showcased the latest innovations in Biobeauty and provided a unique opportunity for the attendees to talk one-to-one with the experts. Delegates took away new insights, solutions and strategies for developing products that truly biotransform, as well as new connections and inspiration from their peers.


    Experts looked at the global trends driving beauty brands' interest in biotransformation/fermentation/biotechnology, their move away from petrochemicals, and the new target: skin's microbiome.

    09:00 - 09:15
    Opening remarks –  Microbes producers & agents in Beauty? 'Scratching the surface'

    With all this talk about the Microbiome, what does your facial microbiome look like? The opening remarks of 2017's in-cosmetics Formulation Summit were a brief introduction to the role of microbes in beauty.

    • Discovering your personal microbiome
    • Preserving products while protecting the microbiome
    • Using next generation sequencing technologies to profile microbial communities

    Chair: Dr Barbara Brockway, Director Personal Care, Applied DNA Sciences


    09:15 - 10:00
    Bio based cosmetics – Science creating value to sustainable ingredients

    The summit explored the legacy of one iconic brand, focusing on its history and the brand's ethos that converts users into devotees.

    • What being sustainable means to Natura and the challenges behind this
    • Value to natural ingredients applying technologies, like genomics, proteomics and metabolomics (some results)
    • Comparison between natural ingredients and specific microorganisms in end points related to skin aging and/or skin protection
    • Challenges for the future in our industry

    Speaker: Alessandro Mendes, Innovation Director, Natura

    10:00 - 10:30
    Fermenting consumer interest in the microbiome

    Prebiotics, probiotics, postbiotics... they're all familiar terms in the food & drink market but less well known in beauty and personal care. Nonetheless, the growing popularity of fermented skincare products is helping to establish in consumers' minds the benefits of nurturing "good bacteria" in the microbiome.

    Mintel's director of innovation and insight, Vivienne Rudd, shared the latest research into consumer interest in fermented beauty products and showed how recent product launches are feeding this interest with new ingredients, claims and formats.

    Speaker: Vivienne Rudd, Director of Innovation & Insight, Beauty & Personal Care, Mintel

    10:30 - 11:00
     Coffee and networking break
    11:00 - 11:30
    Korean fermented products energise the market

    The beauty world looks to Korea for inspiration and Koreans have highlighted traditional fermented materials in many innovative approaches. An array of products from masks to creams and makeup to deliver fermented actives to energise, detox,  purify, and regenerate… Discovered & experienced during this presentation were:

    • How these traditional materials are being used in Asia?
    • How Asian beauty products deliver innovation secured in the past?
    • What are the new ingredients and benefits highlighted nowadays related to pollution, environmental aggression and aging?
    • How inspiring are fermented ingredients for the rest of the world?

    Speaker: Florence Bernardin, Founder & CEO, Information et Inspiration


    11:30 - 12:00
    Revealing the skin microbiota

    Seeing is believing. For far too long the microbiome world we carry around with us has been the 'elephant in the room'. Textbook diagrams rarely show the presence of microbial communities on the skin, yet all of us know that they play an important role in the skin's well-being. To help clear up confusion and inspire 'intelligent' new product development, this session gave delegates:

    • An overview of the skin microbiota
    • A knowledge of skin ecology, which is essential for understanding the formation, composition and control of the skin microbiota
    • An appreciation of the composition of the skin microbiota at different body sites

    Speaker: Prof. Michael Wilson, Professor of Microbiology, University College London

    12:00 - 12:20
    Biofilms and their importance in skin ecology

    Every time you clean your teeth you remove a complex community of microbes held in position with biofilm. The extracellular polysaccharides making up biofilms are already used in cosmetics to provide protection and moisturisation. In this session, the following topics were examined:

    • The role of biofilms in skin's complex ecology
    • Extracellular polysaccharides as actives
    • A look in to the future of formulating with the microbiome

    Speaker: Dr. Lawrence Davies, Senior Microbiologist, Perfectus Biomed

    12:20 - 12:40
    Keeping scalp microbiota in check

    People suffering from dandruff scalp's microbiota have lower levels of Propionibacterium acnes and significantly higher levels of Staphylococcus epidermidis and Malassezia restricta. Could developing products to rebalance the scalp microbiota be the route to a clearer scalp and the end to bad hair days? In this session, delegates learned more about:

    • The composition of the scalp microbiota
    • How an imbalance results in 'bad scalp and hair days'
    • And how to manage scalp microecology

    Speaker: Dr. Cécile Clavaud, Research Engineer, Open Research, L'OREAL Research & Innovation

    12:40 - 14:00
    Networking lunch


    14:00 - 14:20
    Tuning water-in-Silicone Systems to maximize the release rate and skin penetration of actives

    Although the diffusion of a molecule through the stratum corneum (SC) depends on its concentration, physicochemical properties, degree of solubility, interaction with skin components, potential metabolic and photochemical transformation within the skin, the composition of the topical formulation influences greatly both the bioavailability and release rate of the active from the formulation.

    DOW demonstrated that a formulation can be tuned around different classes of silicone-based excipients to maximize the release rate and skin penetration profiles of anti-ageing actives formulated into water-in-silicone systems.

    Click HERE for more info

    Speaker: Marc Eeman, Skin Care Application Designer, DOW

    14:20 - 14:45
    Intracellular 'housekeeping' – Autophagy the new approach to anti-ageing

    Autophagy is a cellular mechanism for survival and waste management system when cells are in high stress, out of nutrients, or ageing. Autophagy has been observed in all kinds of human cells including skin cells.

    Many have reported that a lack of autophagic process in various human cells can lead to metabolic diseases such as type 2 diabetes, Alzheimer’s disease, and certain types of cancer, and that inducing autophagy could become a new solution for the treatment of the above symptoms.

    Click HERE for more info

    Speaker: Keedon Park, CEO, Incospharm Corporation

    Autophagy in practice

    As companies look to this emerging mechanism for keeping skin healthy, we heard how one brand has proved efficacy in its popular Korean skin care.

    Speaker: Sekyoo Jeong Ph.D. Research Director — NeoPharm Co., Ltd. Assistant Professor, Department of Bio-Cosmetic Science, Seowon University

    14:45 - 15:00
    The Microbiome demonstration experiment, sponsored by Solabia

    Dr Barbara Brockway, Director Personal Care, Applied DNA Sciences
    Stephen R. Schwartz, President & CEO, IRSI


    15:00 - 15:25
    A close look at preservatives, prebiotics and probiotics for a healthy microbiome
    • Is the delicate balance of the microbiome inevitably upset by the product's preservatives?
    • How can formulators walk the tight rope between preserving products and encouraging the microbiome?
    • Just because a material is a prebiotic or probiotic for the gut, does that make it useful in topical products?

    The speakers presented a fresh look at preservatives and offered answers to these fundamental questions.

    Kit Wallen-Russell, Director, Pavane Research Centre
    Nick Wallen, Co-Creator, JooMo

    15:25 - 15:45
    Can we use live yoghurt? Important regulations & constraints on Biotransforming Beauty

    Regulations are strict about cosmetics being safe and living up to their claims. In this session, the following issues were faced:

    • The enigma of Probiotics (with live microbes) passing the challenge test
    • Living up to the claim
    • Probiotics & the skin health

    Speaker: Rajat Narang, Head of the Global Regulatory Affairs & Technical Team, Richards & Appleby Limited

    15:45 - 16:15
    Coffee and networking break


    16:15 - 16:45
    Probiotic skincare technology – Not fake science

    How BeBe & Bella, with their background in pharmaceuticals with an emphasis in nutritional supplements and probiotics, have been leading the way in terms of biotransforming beauty since 2013 with their probiotic-based skin care.

    • Inspired by nutritional supplementations
    • Patented microorganisms
    • Supporting the claim that probiotics can improve skin health and beauty

    Speaker: Allison Krebs-Bensch, CEO & Co-founder, BeBe & Bella


    16:45 - 17:15
    Validating microbiome claims – Including the latest DNA techniques

    Understanding the microbiome interaction and impact on the human body has become of more interest in recent years. This is true for the personal care industry, but interest on the microbiome has also attracted other industries such as processed food, agriculture, pharmaceuticals or even space travel.

    Eagle Genomics will expose how advanced DNA sequencing analysis techniques are helping others to understand the microbiome ecosystem and produce scientific claims that in some cases could benefit from product marketing and promotion.

    Speaker: Abel Ureta-Vidal, Chief Executive Officer, Eagle Genomics

    17:15 - 17:45
    The Experts Panel

    How could we put into practice the new-found knowledge obtained throughout the day without breaking any rules and regulations?
    The panel was drawn from speakers from Day 1:

    Moderator: Marie Alice Dibon, Founder, Alice Communications Inc.

    Veronika Oudova, Co-Founder, S-Biomedic
    Marc Eeman, Skin Care Application Designer, DOW
    Prof. Michael Wilson, Professor of Microbiology, University College London
    Kit Wallen-Russell, Director, Pavane Research Centre
    Rajat Narang, Head of the Global Regulatory Affairs & Technical Team, Richards & Appleby Limited
    Allison Krebs-Bensch, CEO & Co-founder, BeBe & Bella

    17:45 - 18:00
    Closing remarks and sponsor’s address

    Chair: Summary and results of the running experiment
    How did your skin microbiome look?

    18:00 - 20:00
    Drinks reception


    The second day of the in-cosmetics Formulation Summit in 2017 focused upon the vast range of ingredients from green technologies that are now available to the formulators who need to quickly make current formulas more sympathetic to the environment, as well as those looking for 'new natural' materials and a more efficacious, greener future.

    08:50 - 09:00
    Opening remarks

    Chair: Dr. Barbara Brockway, Director Personal Care, Applied DNA Sciences


    09:00 - 09:30
    Green replacements for materials derived from petrochemicals

    The fastest way to making products greener is to replace materials derived from petrochemicals with chemically identical materials made through biotransformations such as through fermentation. Solvents, surfactants and now fragrance notes are being produced on a commercial scale by fermentation.

    In this session, each of the successes that are making the biggest impact on greening our industry were celebrated.

    Speaker: Eric Althoff, Co-Founder, Arzeda

    09:30 - 09:50
    Patents - an excellent way of finding out about 'new natural' materials from biotechnology

    There are an increasing number of 'new natural' materials designed as replacements for familiar functional cosmetic materials. This session explored how patents provide a way of exploring these new natural materials, and provided guidance on how to:

    • Read, understand and make use of patents
    • Stay ahead of the competition – patents as information and protection
    • Avoid legal problems – preventing infringement of others’ rights

    Speaker: Julie Barrett-Major, Consulting Attorney, A.A. Thornton & Co.

    09:50 - 10:10
    Using key biotransformed cosmetic ingredients

    How they are being used and how experts could help formulators make more new, biotransformed materials.

    • How should we be using the most popular biotransformed ingredients.
    • Multifunctional or just a one-for-one replacement?
    • Looking for synergies

    Speaker: Margo Marrone, Co-Founder, The Organic Pharmacy

    10:10 - 10:40
    Coffee and networking break


    10:40 - 11:00
    Synthetic biology

    Synthetic biology is a term now being used in personal care. It is an emerging field that applies engineering principles to the fundamental components of biology and is the thinking behind the processes leading to many of the 'new naturals' that were discussed in the session prior.

    Speaker: Dr Stephen Chambers, Imperial College London

    11:00 - 11:20
    Peptides/Enzymes to the rescue

    Peptides turned out to be far more than a trend. Along with enzymes, they are amongst the most powerful tools for Biotransforming beauty. This session explored how they are being used in personal care to produce the most efficacious beauty products.

    Speaker: Prof. Ian W. Hamley, Diamond Professor of Physical Chemistry, University of Reading

    11:20 - 11:50
    Biomimetic strategies leading to greater innovation

    Biomimetic strategies leading to greater innovation: The living natural world's elegant and sophisticated chemistries are a rich source of innovative new cosmetics formulations that could - and have - improved performance, whilst making cosmetics more sustainable at the same time.

    Mark Dorfman showed how biomimicry systematically taps into nature’s strategies to uncover and apply life’s design principles and deep patterns to the development of effective biomimetic solutions.

    Click HERE for more info

    Speaker: Mark Dorfman, Biomimicry Chemist, Biomimicry 3.8


    11:50 - 12:20
    Bioavailability & optimum delivery - Learning from Pharma

    This presentation discussed the necessity of understanding the fate of the formulation components as well as the active once applied onto skin.

    Examples were provided where the optimal vehicle for skin delivery was selected for the active based on matching polarity/solubility.

    Finally, the emerging importance of techniques that probe how the vehicle distributes in and on skin were highlighted.

    Click HERE for more info

    Speaker: Majella Lane, Director, Skin Research Group, UCL School of Pharmacy

    12:20 - 13:30
    Networking lunch
    13:30 - 13:50
    Marine inspiration – algae and UV protection

    Fast growing algae protect themselves from UV damage with mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs). It has been proposed that these natural sunscreens could 'biotransform' SPF products.

    As we move closer to their commercialisation, the Summit asked the academics to tell them more about these and the other algae derived materials, which are already here or are likely to be coming to the beauty industry soon.

    Speaker: Dr. Carole Llewellyn, Associate Professor in Applied Aquatic Bioscience, Swansea University

    13:50 - 14:10
    Bio-protection from polluting nanoparticles

    Since 2016, the market for pollution protecting products has mushroomed. The fine nanoparticles have been shown to cause some of the worst damage. This session looked at natural approaches to protection and the removal of polluting nanoparticles.

    Speaker: David Delport, Global Head of Education, REN Clean Skincare

    14:10 - 14:30
    Epigenetics and cell regulation explained and tamed

    Understanding the mechanistic underpinnings of epigenetics is essential for extending its application to complex systems such as those relevant to the cosmetics industry.

    In this session, delegates were given a clear explanation of epigenetic mechanisms. They heard how these dynamic mechanisms interpret the genome and regulate the function of genes in different tissue types. The relevance of the epigenome in environment:genome interactions were also considered within the context of cosmetic products.

    Click HERE for more info

    Speaker: Rebecca Oakey, Professor of Epigenetics, King's College London

    14:30 - 14:50
    Combining Artificial Intelligence and DNA analysis to accelerate the discovery of new actives from nature

    Technological advances are disrupting industry after industry, and no technology threatens to be more disruptive than Artificial Intelligence; from driver-less vehicles and replacing the family doctor, to the more extreme visions of self-aware robots intent of destroying the human race.

    Nuritas' focus is on human health and using the combination of artificial intelligence and genomics to unlock natural Bioactive peptides with extraordinary health benefits.

    Click HERE for more info

    Speaker: Neil Foster, Head of Strategic Partnerships, Nuritas

    14:50 - 15:20
    Coffee and networking break
    15:20 - 15:40
    Circular economy applied to natural & organic cosmetics enables a holistic approach to ageing

    The use of sustainable resources is a pressing issues in all industrial fields and even more so in the cosmetic industry. The use of waste materials, either of botanical origin or from the food industry, is opening new possibilities in the development of raw materials and finished goods that are not only efficacious, but also more sustainable, renewable and green. On the other side, there is a strong movement towards products that favour a better & more gracious ageing, with a strong focus on the emotional aspects of life, cosmetic products included.

    The speaker presented a case study showing how the use of sustainable ingredients derived from botanical waste enabled a more holistic approach to skin ageing.

    Speaker: Dr. Andrea Mitarotonda, CSO, Neal's Yard Remedies

    15:40 - 16:10
    Closing remarks & group discussion

    Experts exchanged views and shared their experiences.

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