Full Education Programme 2017

  • The summit showcases the latest innovations in Biobeauty and gives a unique opportunity to talk one-to-one with the experts. Delegates will take away new insights, solutions and strategies for developing products that truly biotransform, as well as new connections and inspiration from their peers.

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    Experts will look at the global trends driving beauty brands' interest in biotransformation/fermentation/biotechnology, their move away from petrochemicals and the new target, skin's microbiome.

    09:00 - 09:15
    Opening remarks –  Microbes producers & agents in Beauty? 'Scratching the surface'

    With all this talk about the Microbiome, what does your facial microbiome look like? The opening remarks of this year's in-cosmetics Formulation Summit, – is a brief introduction to the role of microbes in beauty.

    • Discovering your personal microbiome
    • Preserving products while protecting the microbiome
    • Using next generation sequencing technologies to profile microbial communities

    Chair: Dr Barbara Brockway, Director Personal Care, Applied DNA Sciences


    09:15 - 10:00
    Iconic global brands – Success built on fermentation

    One of the most prestigious skin care products is based on fermentation. Some of the science behind the biotransformation's that underpin their product's success are shared. The history behind the product and why users turn into devotees.

    • Highs and lows when producing fermented broth
    • Key biochemistry underpinning efficacy
    • Future of biotransformations
    10:00 - 10:30
    Product trends - Fermentation & the microbiome

    At the summit last year, we touched on the trend for traditional Asian fermented ingredients in personal care. Formulators and suppliers see fermentation to be more sustainable and so fuelling, as never before, the interest in biotech/fermented materials into personal care. Then there is also the coming Tsunami of interest in the microbiome. Trend experts at Mintel share their insights into:

    • How beauty is embracing fermentation
    • The impact of the microbiome on NPD
    • Where are these trends are going next?
    10:30 - 11:00
     Coffee and networking break
    11:00 - 11:30
    Korean fermented products energise the market

    Korean fermented products energise the market
    The beauty world looks to Korea for inspiration and Koreans have highlighted traditional fermented materials in many innovative approaches.  An array of products from masks to creams and makeup to deliver fermented actives to energise, detox,  purify, regenerate …
    Discover & experience during this presentation:

    • How are these traditional materials being used in Asia?
    • How Asian beauty products deliver innovation secured in the past?
    • What are the new ingredients and benefits highlighted nowadays related to pollution, environmental aggression and aging?
    • How inspiring are fermented ingredients for the rest of the world?

    Speaker: Florence Bernardin, Founder &CEO, Information & Inspiration


    11:30 - 12:00
    Revealing the skin microbiota

    Seeing is believing. For far too long the microbiome world we carry around with us has been the 'elephant in the room'. Text book diagrams rarely show the presence of microbial communities on the skin, yet all of us know that they play an important role in the skin's well-being. To help clear up confusion and inspire 'intelligent' new product development, this session will give delegates:

    • An overview of the skin microbiota
    • A knowledge of skin ecology, which is essential for understanding the formation, composition and control of the skin microbiota
    • An appreciation of the composition of the skin microbiota at different body sites

    Speaker: Prof. Michael Wilson, Professor of Microbiology, University College London

    12:00 - 12:20
    Biofilms and their importance in skin ecology

    Every time you clean your teeth you remove a complex community of microbes held in position with biofilm. The extracellular polysaccharides making up biofilms are already used in cosmetics to provide protection and moisturisation. In this session, we will examine:

    • The role of biofilms in skin's complex ecology
    • Extracellular polysaccharides as actives
    • A look in to the future in formulating with the microbiome

    Speaker: Dr. Lawrence Davies, PerfectusBioMed

    12:20 - 12:40
    Keeping hair & scalp microbiota in check

    People suffering from dandruff scalp's microbiota have lower levels of P acnes and significantly higher levels of Staphylococcus epidermidis and Malassezia restricta. Developing products to rebalance the scalp microbiota could be the route to clearer shinier hair and the end to bad hair days. In this session, we learn more about:

    • The composition of the scalp microbiota
    • How an imbalance results in 'bad hair days'
    • How best to manage scalp microecology

    Speaker: Cécile Clavaud, L'Oréal

    12:40 - 14:00
    Networking lunch


    14:00 - 14:25
    A close look at preservatives, prebiotics and probiotics for a healthy microbiome

    Is the delicate balance of the microbiome inevitably upset by the product's preservatives? How can formulators walk the tight rope between preserving products and encouraging the microbiome? Just because a material is a prebiotic or probiotic for the gut does that make it useful in topical products? We take a fresh look at preservatives and offer answers to these fundamental questions.

    14:25 - 14:45
    Can we use live yoghurt? Important regulations & constraints on Biotransforming Beauty

    Regulations are strict about cosmetics being safe and living up to their claims. In this session, we face the issues of:

    • The enigma of Probiotics (with live microbes) passing the challenge test
    • Living up to the claim
    • Probiotics & the skin health

    Speaker: Rajat Narang, Global Head, Cosmetics Regulatory & Compliance, Richards & Appleby


    14:45 - 15:15
    BeBe & Bella, pioneering probiotic based brand

    How BeBe & Bella with their background in pharmaceuticals, with an emphasis in nutritional supplements and probiotics, have been leading the way Biotransforming beauty since 2013 with their probiotic based skin care.

    • Their inspiration from traditional fermented foods
    • Patented microbes
    • Supporting the claim

    Speaker: Allison Krebs-Bensch, CEO US Pharmaceutical Corporation/CEO & CoFounder, BeBe & Bella

    15:15 - 15:45
    Coffee and networking break
    15:45 - 16:45
    Tuning water-in-Silicone Systems to maximize the release rate and skin penetration of actives

    The stratum corneum (SC), the skin’s outermost layer, is the principal component of the cutaneous barrier acting as a physical barrier controlling the percutaneous absorption of external substances. The SC is composed of stacked corneocytes embedded in an extracellular matrix mainly constituted from ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. This matrix represents the sole continuous region of the SC and the preferential pathway to deliver cosmetic actives into the skin.

    Although the diffusion of a molecule through the SC depends on its concentration, physicochemical properties, degree of solubility, interaction with skin components, potential metabolic and photochemical transformation within the skin, the composition of the topical formulation influences greatly both the bioavailability and release rate of the active from the formulation.

    Dow demonstrated that a formulation can be tuned around different classes of silicone-based excipients to maximize the release rate and skin penetration profiles of anti-ageing actives formulated into water-in-silicone systems.

    Speaker: TBC, DOW

    Biotransforming Cosmetic Ingredients which use original approaches

    Intracellular 'housekeeping – Autophagy the new approach to antiaging

    Back by popular demand, a new approach to antiaging. At last year's summit, delegates learnt how important it is for our cells to breakdown and reuse (or remove cellular components) through autophagy. The 2016 Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine had just been presented to Yoshinori Ohsumi to acknowledge his work on discovering the mechanisms of autophagy so we were proud that the cosmetics industry was already poised to take full advantage of this discovery. In essence, by promoting autophagy we are promoting good 'intracellular housekeeping' so keeping cells healthy and efficient. In this session, we hear more about how autophagy is being used as a mechanism for antiaging and well-being.

    Speaker: Keedon Park, Incospharm

    Other experts TBC


    16:45 - 17:15
    Validating microbiome claims – Including the latest DNA techniques

    Novel claims require new validation methods. Advanced DNA techniques help us screen for new actives to demonstrate efficacy. They also have enabled us to identify and characterise the microbiome, and so unsurprisingly, they are also offering us interesting ways to prove cosmetic claims. Experts in claims validation talk about the methods now being used for supporting claims about the microbiome.

    17:15 - 17:45
    Expert Panel – Drivers and constraints controlling biotransformations in beauty

    How can we put into practice the new-found knowledge without breaking rules?

    The panel is drawn from speakers from Day 1 and other experts.

    17:45 - 18:00
    Closing remarks and sponsor’s address

    Chair: Summary and results of the running experiment

    How did your skin microbiome look?

    18:00 - 20:00
    Drinks reception


    Focus on the vast range of ingredients from green technologies that are now available to the formulators who need to quickly make current formulas more sympathetic to the environment as well as those looking for 'new natural' materials and a more efficacious, greener future.

    08:50 - 09:00
    Opening remarks

    Chair: Dr. Barbara Brockway, Director Personal Care, Applied DNA Sciences


    09:00 - 09:30
    Green replacements for materials derived from petrochemicals

    The fastest way to making products greener is to replace materials derived from petrochemicals with chemically identical materials made through biotransformations such as through fermentation. Solvents, Surfactants and now fragrance notes are being produced on a commercial scale by fermentation. In this session, we celebrate the successes that are making the biggest impact on greening our industry.

    09:30 - 09:50
    The latest 'new natural' materials from biotechnology

    There are an increasing number of 'new natural' materials designed as replacements for familiar functional cosmetic martials. In this session, we survey the market place and let delegates know what is available and answer questions on how they are made, their relative costs and how best to use them.

    Speaker: Barbara Brockway, Applied DNA Sciences

    09:50 - 10:10
    Using key biotransformed cosmetic ingredients

    How they are being used. Brand story … Experts help formulators make more of the new, biotransformed materials?

    • How should we be using the most popular biotransformed ingredients.
    • Multifunctional or just a one for one replacement?
    • Looking for synergies
    10:10 - 10:40
    Coffee and networking break


    10:40 - 11:00
    Synthetic biology

    Synthetic biology is a term now being used in personal care. It is an emerging field that applies engineering principles to the fundamental components of biology and is the thinking behind the processes leading to many of the 'new naturals' discussed in the previous session.

    11:00 - 11:20
    Artificial intelligence accelerates discovery and commercialisation
    11:20 - 11:50
    Biomimetic strategies leading to greater innovation

    Early attempts at human flight were modelled on how birds fly. Legend has it that it was when, following a country walk, the Swiss electrical engineer George de Mestral removed burrs from his trousers that he invented Velcro. How many other inventions owe their existence to a keen observation how nature resolves problems? Biomimetic strategies are also beginning to be used in NPD. This is where the 'how does nature do it' approach is used to finding new solutions to cosmetic problems.
    In this session, we hear from experts how the beauty industry is taking inspiration from nature to develop new products.


    11:50 - 12:20
    Bioavailability & optimum delivery - Learning from Pharma

    By optimising bioavailability through biotransformations and by choosing the best delivery vehicles, formulators can fine-tune formulas to fit their budgets as well as satisfying the consumer's expectations. Increasing bioavailability and targeting delivery are techniques, which pharma has made their own. In this session, we learn from pharmacology, how to make the best use of actives.

    12:20 - 13:30
    Networking lunch
    13:30 - 13:50
    Marine inspiration – algae and UV protection

    Fast growing algae protect themselves from UV damage with mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs). It has been proposed that these natural sunscreens could 'biotransform' SPF products. As we move closer to their commercialisation, the Summit asks the academics to tell them more about these and the other algae derived materials, which are already here or are likely to be coming to the beauty industry soon.

    Speaker: Carole Llewellyn, Swansea Uni

    13:50 - 14:10
    Bio-protection from polluting nanoparticles

    Since last year's summit the market for pollution protecting products has mushroomed. The fine nanoparticles have been shown to cause some of the worst damage. In this session, we look at natural approached to protection and removal on polluting nanoparticles.

    14:10 - 14:30
    Epigenetics and cell regulation explained and tamed

    Epigenetics is a term being used in cosmetics but its importance and application to cosmetics is sometimes hard to understand. In this session, delegates will be given a clear explanation of epigenetics. They will hear how highly dynamic epigenetic mechanisms control stem cell differentiation by regulating the structure and function of genes. Many of the faults we address with cosmetics, including the main signs of aging, are as a result of changes in DNA and because of faulty regulation systems. Our leading expert makes this science simple as she guides us through.

    Speaker: Rebecca Oakey, Professor of Epigenetics, King's College London

    14:30 - 14:50
    Peptides/Enzymes to the rescue

    Peptides turned out to be far more than a trend. Along with enzymes they are amongst the most powerful tools for Biotransforming beauty. In this session, we hear how they are being used in personal care to produce the most efficacious beauty products.

    Speaker: Prof Ian Hamley, Reading University

    14:50 - 15:20
    Coffee and networking break
    15:20 - 15:40
    Importance of formulating naturally in the circular economy

    Life cycle analysis and the circular economy are driving responsible brands to think beyond developing and marketing the most effective products. More than ever before, formulators are challenged with creating products that are not only, the best of their type but must also be made with materials, which were once waste or from botanicals not grown on land needed for food. As matter cannot be destroyed but it is transformed, it is important to think how products (including packaging) enter the environment after they leave the user. In this session, these issues including microbeads are covered.

    Speaker: Dr. Andrea Mitarotonda, Neal's Yard Remedies

    15:40 - 16:10
    Closing remarks & group discussion

    Experts exchange views and share their experience.

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